Wedding Crashers

While filming on location in Northern Iraq in 2010, our director suddenly ordered our small convoy to take a detour. ‘A film-worthy moment,’ she cried, pointing at some activity in the distance. It was a traditional Kurdish open-air wedding. Imagine the guests’ reactions when the occupants of three strange vehicles poured out, unannounced. Being of Kurdish descent, our director was able to communicate with the bride and groom’s family, securing their permission to allow us to film the joyous occasion. While the producer, Bruce Spargo, steered the cameraman between the happy celebrants, members of our party were invited to participate in the traditional wedding dances. While I’m certainly no dancer, I believe even Michael Flatley of ‘Lord of the Dance’ fame would have struggled with some of the Kurds’ more intricate shimmies!

Unlike most of Iraq’s arid landscape, the northern region of Kurdistan is breathtakingly scenic. High mountains; green valleys; natural springs: it’s no wonder it’s referred to as the Switzerland of the Middle East.

Kurds are a proud people. They’re also magnanimous hosts. Sumptuous spreads were provided wherever we travelled.

From the ramparts of the ancient citadel of Amadiyah, we gazed down on scenery that has probably changed little since Biblical times. We learnt from our guide that the Magi—the wise men who travelled far to pay homage to the infant Jesus—purportedly hailed from this mountaintop fortress.

On another memorable occasion we were invited into the sacred valley town of Lalish. It is the holy burial site of Sheikh Adi ibn Musafir—a central figure of the Yazidi faith—and therefore the Yazidi’s holiest of temples. Sadly, four years after our visit, ISIS insurgents invaded the region, destroying nearly every edifice in the land, especially those that didn’t conform to their notion of the caliphate. The ancient temple of Lalish was forever lost to history.